Arun Shanbhag ([info]arunshanbhag) wrote,

Baanganga: In the Heart of Mumbai



After a refreshing early morning run in Mumbai I recounted the route to my parents. I had run from Electric House, via Mantralaya, along the Chowpatty sea face, past Wilson College to the top of the hill.

"That's Walkeshwar hill!" my father revealed, "and if you had gone a little further you would have reached Baanganga and the Walkeshwar devasthan (temple or mandir)." My father explained how the Baanganga - the fresh water spring only a few yards from the ocean - came to be by the grace of Shri Rama. Being a Bombayite, I prided myself on knowing every significant site here. How had I missed this important landmark while growing up only a few miles away? Perhaps I was not ready to walk here; here where Rama walked?

On my next day's run, I continued to the top of Walkeshwar hill and over to Baanganga. Here enroute to Lanka, Rama and Laxmana are believed to have rested. And here, I too removed my shoes and stretched my feet.

According to legend, Shri Rama and Laxmana did not find drinking water on this spit of land surrounded by salty ocean. Laxmana then shot an arrow into the ground, springing forth a stream of fresh water. The water pooled forming the Baanganga, (see pic above) refering to the purifying waters of river Ganga brought here by an arrow Baan.

For his prayers, Rama fashioned a linga from the sand, giving the area its name Walkeshwar (Wallu - sand + Ishwar - God). The crudely fashioned linga, with petrified finger marks is now enshrined in a tiny temple right across from the Baanganga.

It was [info]indumol's recent post on Baanganga that inspired me to share these pics with you. The Walkeshwar mandir is to the left on this schematic. For bearings, the above pic was taken from the steps by the Ganapati mandir.


The Walkeshwar devasthan is a tiny shrine and I shot this pic from the doorway. You can see the Nandi (seated bull) in the small antaralaya - foreroom. Past the collection box on the left, the linga is slightly below ground level, under the watchful eyes of the Snake God. Early in the morning, all visitors can pour water on the linga (performing abhishek) and pray.

My fingers traced the ridges on this linga, where fingers had crudely moulded and the whole turned to stone. How many had touched this before me? The blessed Shri Rama! And Lakshmana too! And the millions and millions of devotees before me, thanking the divine for her munificence. And then I realized, how insignificant my life is. A tiny being, a tiny droplet from the ocean of Brahman - the Paramatman. I let the water flow over my fingers over the linga, and watched it swirl away into the unknown. Another devotee had offered a few bael leaves on the linga. I picked one up as a blessing from the divine, touched it to my forehead and carefully placed it in my running shorts.

I picked up my running shoes and walked around the numerous shrines, which have sprouted around this hallowed tank.



In front of the Walkeshwar Mandir, these steps lead to the tank itself. There is a tiny shrine to Ganesha in the niche in the wall, behind where the lady in the red saree is praying to Nandi. The rest of the family appeared to be enjoying their outing here.




The little girl and the younger brother she held, were both mesmerized by the glinting waters of the Baanganga.


Yes! Its the shoes! It is my running shoes which bring me to fascinating places, where I meet fabulous people and take away great memories. And yes, everyday I run is a day to remember! If you see me smiling, its because I am running today!

cross-posted on [info]indiaphotoalbum and [info]sanatana_dharma

  • Post a new comment

    Error

    Your reply will be screened

    Your IP address will be recorded 

  • 33 comments

[info]reformedvesper

February 16 2006, 04:10:36 UTC 6 years ago

you *ran* from colaba to bloody walkeshwar? i am so impressed. that's from one fav paan-wala to the next :)

[info]arunshanbhag

February 16 2006, 15:21:23 UTC 6 years ago

you impressed? wait till you hear of my more recent adventures.

thankfully you didn't call me "paan-wala bhayaa." ;-)

O, just for you, I am gonna post KP pics soon :-)

[info]jdoublea

February 16 2006, 04:35:07 UTC 6 years ago

I really like that last photo... It's hard for me to take something like that!

[info]arunshanbhag

February 16 2006, 15:26:35 UTC 6 years ago

I do like the expression on their faces! But look how I centered the subjects - isn't that like a big No No! in photography? I should have framed better.

and ofcourse, very soon you will shoot better than this. :-)

[info]dunefield

February 16 2006, 06:19:41 UTC 6 years ago

Really cool pics !!

Would you believe it, this is the first time I have seen it other than a music video or movie?
That's what happens when you study in one city and visit the other on weekends to meet family and your better half.I mean, you ask me about Pune, and I can keep ranting about Pataleshwar and Parvati, for that matter, even Hanuman Tekdi (sandwiched between Fergusson and Symbiosis colleges).Though, the almost artifical green water in the photographs remind me of Panshet or Khadakvasla dams on Holi/Rang Panchami day. I can tell you by experience that we Puneites ensured that on those days the dam water took different hues.Of course, the next day we would be drinking the same and wondering why it tasted so bad.

My icon has been waiting for this post.It's so amazingly appropriate for this post.

[info]arunshanbhag

February 16 2006, 16:38:14 UTC 6 years ago

many thanks! when I was actually living in mumbai, I didn't pay particular attention to all these places. Now I only look for such sites.

So I gather you are form Pune? surprisingly have never been there (except enroute to somewhere else ;-)

Nice user-pic. Is this part of a recently published collections on old mumbai photos? I remember seeing something similar on the NYTimes pages.

Khakadvasla ...; so many places, so little time!

[info]dunefield

6 years ago

[info]hamdamn

February 16 2006, 10:33:57 UTC 6 years ago

That's so cool!!! Man you must be in great shape with all the running you do!!!*thumbs up*

[info]arunshanbhag

February 16 2006, 16:40:00 UTC 6 years ago

:-)
With all the eating I do, I need to run to just stay in shape.

[info]dhempe

February 16 2006, 13:27:14 UTC 6 years ago

really awesome pics arun bhai and good info too. I always love info on bombay ! :)

[info]arunshanbhag

February 16 2006, 16:40:49 UTC 6 years ago

thanks hrish. next time you are in mumbai, you can check it out!
btw, haven't seen many updates from you lately. Hope all is well.

[info]tashar

February 16 2006, 14:05:31 UTC 6 years ago

Lovely as always. :-) I'm learning a lot about how to frame a pic through your work!

[info]arunshanbhag

February 16 2006, 16:41:46 UTC 6 years ago

many thanks!
in hindsight, I see so many ways to 'better' frame. Hope that is what you were refering to. :-))

Deleted comment

[info]arunshanbhag

February 16 2006, 17:08:25 UTC 6 years ago

thank you for the inspiration! morning is the best time - you actually get to pour water over the linga and all.

BTW, if you are coming all the way in the morning, also visit the babulnath temple nearby (Cab fare minimum 13 rs). It is right around Wilson College. Climb up the 100 odd steps. There too you can do an abhishek (pour water over the linga and else). And the priests stay clear!!! O, what fun.

Yes, some of the temples there are just superb. Need to visit phursat mein and look around, and click!

Deleted comment

[info]dil_rhuba

February 16 2006, 19:25:47 UTC 6 years ago

The pictures are so clear and colorful... looks like it's straight from a story book.

Beautiful... I'm in awe ;]

[info]goofy_duck2004

February 16 2006, 21:22:46 UTC 6 years ago

I like the kid in your icon.

[info]dil_rhuba

6 years ago

[info]arunshanbhag

February 17 2006, 02:23:33 UTC 6 years ago

hey thanks. glad you liked it. Perhaps you will get to visit it one day! :-)

[info]dil_rhuba

6 years ago

[info]dil_rhuba

6 years ago

[info]goofy_duck2004

February 16 2006, 21:22:26 UTC 6 years ago

Thanks for sharing. Never heard of it when i was in Bombay. Didn't do much then but now i am doing my Mumbai darshan through your posts.

Is the Shiv Ling almost near the ground under the Snake hood? Sorry, I am not able to make out clearly.

[info]arunshanbhag

February 17 2006, 02:35:30 UTC 6 years ago

Never heard of it when i was in Bombay.
can't blame you. I lived there for more than two decades, and only saw it on our last visit (and it was within running distance!)

Yes, the linga is shallow dome-like and is just at the base of the snake hood. Yes, it was dark, but you may see a few flowers on it (it has ridges on it - like if shaped from sand).

A note and my interesting take on this:
a. I shot this from the doorway of the temple with my older Olympus Point and shoot, so I was surprised it came out even this well.
b. I thought of cropping and brightening the linga itself, so you could see it, but then decided against it. perhaps 'not seeing the linga' may convince you to actually visit the temple and see the linga in person. Perhaps I thought, this was the divine's intention. I console myself by thinking, "HE" wants me to come and visit again!

So for you! Go in person and see the linga more clearly! :-))

[info]on9thheaven

February 16 2006, 22:55:12 UTC 6 years ago

i've never seen banganga in person though i've been around it way too many times! thanks for sharing...

btw, i read you comment to someone earlier that you've never been to pune. wot????????? lanat hai tum-parr! LOL... but then can't blame ya - you are a 100% bambaiyya... you won't like pune as much, i think.

[info]arunshanbhag

February 17 2006, 02:38:41 UTC 6 years ago

Now that you know the legend, you should visit it the next time you are in mumbai. Lots of history!

Nothing personal about not visiting Poona. Did not know anybody there. All our family and relatives were either in Mumbai, or back in Goa/Karnataka - so we visited there all the time. Always loved lonavala and only went there for a trip on our last visit.
... and yes, 100% bambaiyya!
:-))

[info]jace

February 17 2006, 07:21:17 UTC 6 years ago

That's a rather large tank to be hidden away in the middle of Bombay. Now I've got to go see the place!

[info]arunshanbhag

February 20 2006, 17:05:07 UTC 6 years ago

Kiran, don't feel too bad. I missed it for most of my life, and I lived for decades only a few miles away!

Just posted a satellite view with coordinates in google earth. The next time you are in mumbai, you can find your way there. :-)

I shot the pics with my older Olympus P&S, so I am looking forward to visiting there again with my D70.

[info]fiveonehalf

February 21 2006, 06:07:34 UTC 6 years ago

I really love your pictures. Hope you don't mind me adding you as a friend

[info]arunshanbhag

February 21 2006, 12:00:06 UTC 6 years ago

please go ahead. I will browse your journal a bit later.
Create an Account
Forgot your login or password?
Facebook Twitter More login options
English • Español • Deutsch • Русский…